Publication Detail

A finite-depth wind-wave model. Part I: model description.

Hans C. Graber, Ole S Madsen
MITSG 89-17J

As waves propagate from deep to shallow water, wave growth is limited by wave/bottom interactions. But few field measurements exist to help model the energy balance of shallow water waves and the relative importance of finite-depth processes. To understand surface waves in finite-depth water, a numerical model for wave behavior in a limited-depth sea was designed. Study shows that bottom friction is as important as nonlinear energy transfer in controlling spectral shape in shallow water, that the spectral peak wanders toward higher frequencies, and that equilibrium energy spectra depend on bottom roughness.

type: Technical reports

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